8 August 2011

LFW Preview SS12

As promised, here's an EXCLUSIVE preview in what you can hope to see on next SS12's catwalks, which perhaps will give you some all important early inspiration, and of course will highlight the names to look out for next year. I have also included the dates of LFW exhibition this September. Enjoy!
New at LFW SS12 exhibition

BROOKE ROBERTS has previously studied fashion design & pattern cutting at London College of Fashion & Central Saint Martins. Her past education in applied science gave her a unique technical twist, due to her prior knowledge of human anatomy, inspiring her textile design, cutting and construction. She has previously worked for Louise Goldin and Giles, and is trademarked for her CT brain scan jacquard dress.

CHARLOTTE TAYLOR was soon snapped up to work for luella after graduation from Central Saint Martins. However in June 2009, she decided to take a new path, and design under her own name. She has also worked for Frost French and Marcus Constable. Her designs are known for being "quirky, unexpected and elegant. 100% print focused". For SS12, she was inspired by beekeeping, fishing, Japanese art and culture.

HERMIONE DE PAULA studied at Central Saint Martins, gaining work experience at Christian Dior Couture, Alexander McQueen & John Galliano, and has since worked for Jennifer Nicholson in LA, before setting up her own label in London. Her designs have been sold in Nicholas Kirkwood and on ASOS.com. Her signature is "unusual, hand-painted floral prints".

JAMES LONG is currently showing with NEWGEN, after completing an MA in menswear & accessories at the Royal College of Art. He has worked for the likes of Virginia Bates in NY and in London, before he set up his own label. For SS12, he took inspirations from "the film Casino, Sissy Spceck and ginger".

From left to right : Brooke Roberts; Charlotte Taylor; Hermione De Paula; James Long - NEWGEN

KIRSTY WARD graduated with distinction from the Central Saint Martins MA Womenswear course. She has since worked for Alberta Ferretti before setting up her own label. Her design signatures include "sculptural jewellery juxtaposed against layered, cut-out and embellished clothing".

LUCAS NASCIMENTO graduated in 2008 from London College of Fashion, and has spent the last three seasons showing at Rio Fashion Week. He says "I like to create silhouettes that are not typical of knitwear, using knit unexpectedly through careful yarn consideration and solid research. I am interested in the geometric and textural aspects of knitwear. My pieces are taken on the classic cocooning, protective knit, but with a twist -either in yarn or structure". His SS12 collection has been inspired by "Woven Textures, American animists such as Agnes Martin and tailoring".

MUNGO GURNEY is a graduate of Central Saint Martins, and has worked for Roberto Cavalli and The Creative Archives, before setting up his own label. His signature is "modern print combined with simple, classic cuts", and is know for his "long, slim, printed silk shift . . . and lazer-cut bandeau one-piece swimsuit".

PALMER//HARDING is a combination of the NEWGEN designers Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding. Palmer womenswear & pattern cutting at EI Centro College in Dallas before moving to London to study BA menswear at Central Saint Martins; while Harding studied BA & MA womenswear at Central Saint Martins. This is their first season with NEWGEN, and they have found inspiration for the collection from "Nico, Madame Gres and Aaron Huey".

From left to right : Kirsty Ward; Lucas Nascimento; Mungo Gurney; Palmer//Harding - NEWGEN

SISTER BY SIBLING is a collaboration of the NEWGEN designers Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. Before SIBLING, the designers designers had each worked for various labels. They describe "On the SIBLING family tree, SISTER is on the branch right next to brother SIBLING so you can expect colour, humour, sparkle and that everything will be knitted".

SUSANA BETTENCOURT is actually called Susana Garcia Lopes. She gained a BA in Fashion Knitwear at Central Saint Martins and an MA in Digital Fashion at London College of Fashion. She has worked for Brooke Roberts, Alexandra Moura and Fatima Lopes, before she started up her own label. The signatures of her designs include statement jewellery and delicate handcrafted seamless knitwear.

TIM SOAR is currently a NEWGEN designer, but he has previously set up POST Design in the 1980's with Neville Brody. He then set up a music consultancy called Music Concrete, where he would work for hotels and fashion brands such as Ian Schranger Hotels, Adidas and Fendi. In 2006 he took another career change, and launched a menswear label called SOAR. His first season with NEWGEN is inspired by "deconstruction, layering and inside-out tailoring", with a clean cut, well-made signature.

VILSHENKO first studied at the Institute of Fashion and Art in Russia, then came to London to study at Instituto Marangoni. Olga Vilshenko now splits her time between these two capitals, with a design studio at each. Her signature is "a clean silhouette and an elegant, sophisticated look. All my designs are inspired by Russian heritage and folk craftsmanship".

SISTER by SIBLING - NEWGEN; Susana Bettencourt; Tim Soar - NEWGEN; Vilshenko

And remember, if you want to see these emerging talents' debut at the Exhibition, it is held between 16th-21st September 2011 (the 21stat London Fashion Week, Somerset House, Strand, London. The exhibition will also include:

  • The 17 BFC NEWGEN designers, based on the Terrace.

  • The BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad winners, at the Embankment Galleries on Lower 2.

  • The Navy Board Room Collective, with previous NEWGEN winners including Mark Fast & Fannie Schiavoni.

    For more information, please visit

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